Showing posts with label Haines. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Haines. Show all posts

Our home away from home, Haines, AK

Haines, AK is like home to us.

Here's why:
$5 ocean front lodging - Portage Cove Campground

Met another Vermonter immediately - First afternoon we were there we met Kelley, works at the local bike shop: Sockeye Cycle. He's working at Bike Center in Middlebury VT next summer...true story.

The wildlife - we saw feeding brown bears, black bears, bald eagles, mountain goats

Access to Canada - we rented a car and took a day trip to the Yukon.... you hear me, the Yukon... like Yukon Cornelius from the animated classic "Land of Misfit Toys"... well that's what it should've been called named

Fireweed - with their amazing specialty pizzas and calzones and carbonated beverages (see "Their beer") This place also held an open mic, with local musicians doin' their thang.

Their beer - Haines Brewery boasts a nice IPA and Red, plus their own delectable Spruce Tip Ale. Annie-O's favorite. Served at all the local establishments around town and the brewery had $10 growler refills, 1 1/2 mile walk outside of town.

Friends - Met a nice lady, Rosie, who is traveling to all 50 states in a year. She's on thirty something, but after Hawaii, her drive back to the Midwest will get her to fifty. The she plans on getting a graduate certificate in urban planning and helping Detroit become self sustaining..how 'bout that!?

More Friends - Met a couple, Annie from Maine, Paul from DC, during a 10-mile. Annie from Maine, was carrying a Red Sox hat with her and a simple "BoSox fan, eh?" turned into a rendezvous later that evening at none other than Fireweed. Turns out these two have spent a lot of time conserving and protecting the trail we were hiking when we met them. They sat down, we shared a couple pitchers and agreed to see them again. Later in the week, we brought a growler of IPA and a growler of spruce tip to their house, near the town's salvation army and chatted and sipped for an afternoon. Just great stuff - they're headed back to Maine for their yearly Autumn trip..six weeks to see the leaves change, then back to AK! Paul, accommodating to a fault was the one who told us to go up to the Yukon. He wanted to do it himself.."Annie, we should really take a drive up there with these two tomorrow. We haven't been there in a while." Annie, knowing they had plenty to do before heading back East listened and let it go for a while, but eventually said, "Paul, now, now I have to say something... we just have too much to do and don't have the time." Put a smile on my face, both Annies always level headed and calculated

Trails - We had our best hike in Haines: 7-mile saddle, to 3920, to Mt Ripinsky north peak, then south and down, a ten mile jaunt that took us to uh...3920 ft above sea level, but had us gain more than 5000 ft total...and our worst in Haines: Mt Riley. River trails, mountain trails, great variety.

Their rivers - Chilkoot and the Chilkat, very different, unique habitats and fun to explore

Sea kayaking - in the fjords, e'nuff (z'nuff) said

Their coffee haunts - Ripinsky Roasters at Mountain Market was the beez neez.

Their public library - open until 9 PM, donation based internet access, a large supply of movies

Their pie - Northern Light's blueberry pie was ridiculous

When you find yourself really enjoying a place it's interesting to stop and ask why. Why am I liking this place better than others? When the result of your question is a list the length of the one above, you know you've found a fit. You also begin to see, through repetition what's really important for you in a community and place to live. For us, it's never been a secret... mountains, waters, wildlife, food, libations and people are the key. But experiencing the importance of an active public library in Haines opened my eyes a bit.  It's something I've always taken for granted. I can't tell you the last time I was in the Bixby Library (public library in Vergennes, VT). I don't know what they're doing for the community or to what level it's being taken advantage of. After seeing the large role the library plays here and in other small Southeast Alaskan towns, it makes me want to ensure that the community we end up in, has these types of resources available. If not, then we should work to make them available and ensure people know what's out there.

Petersburg: Short and Sweet

We ended up spending just under 72 hours in Petersburg, but boy did it leave a mark. It's a town of around 3,000 people built on the proper combination of fisheries (mostly), logging (minimal), tourism (minimal). It sits a'top (northern most point) Mitkof Island and is accessible from the south through the Wrangell Narrows - an impressive waterway, which when navigated by the ferry we arrived on I liken to boating up otter creek to the Vergennes falls.... shits tieeeeght! One of the Narrow's best parts, besides its natural beauty, is that it doesn't allow the large cruise ships through, thus no cruisers (ah yes they have a name) clogging up Petersburg streets throughout the summer. After Ketchikan (three to four boats a day) that was amazingly refreshing.

It's a fishing town with north, mid, and south docks lined with trollers, seiners, gill-netters and charter fishing boats... the docks are awesome. We actually met a born and bread Petersburg fisherman, Mike, through our Petersburg host (owner of Alaska Island Hostel, Ryn). After meeting Mike at the Hostel Saturday afternoon noon, we saw him again that evening on his boat, as he prepared for a three day silver (coho) salmon trip. The trip are all regulated by the state to maintain sustainable fish populations. He super nice, loved answering questions and sharing knowledge of the art. Talking to him you realize, in these parts...everyone fishes. You don't have to work for a company, you are the company and everyone sells their catch back to the local cannery. Mike's been doing it himself for years, with side gigs here and there. I was this close to heading out with him, little first mate, deck hand action, but wasn't in the cards; just means we'll have to return. We've got a picture of his boat which we'll post once we get wifi back. Just awesome stuff.

While walking the docks Sunday (the next day) we saw two of the kids that were on our original ferry ride up from Bellingham, WA. They were twenty somethings, decked out in rain gear obviously now assigned to a boat and workin away. It was the first realization of how small the Southeast Alaska community could be if you traveled throughout it at any length. I wonder how often people travel outside of their town or borough, to other parts of SE Alaska... my guess is not much.

On Sunday, we also followed, what seemed like, everyone's advice and partook in a local greasy spoon favorite: Halibut Beer Bits at Coastal Cold Storage; a small deli slash fresh and frozen seafood joint on Nordic Ave (the main drag). It was deeeeelic, sided with fries... which were also very good. Annie said it was like they had "hand picked the best McDonald's fries and put them in one basket". Don't act like you don't know what we talkin' about!

So... to sum it up: good people, good scenery, still, calm waters, 3,000 foot spruced peaks, boats galore, good food and - although we didn't talk about it - an interesting fashion statement centered around 16" tall rubber boots (wait for the pictures), it's spectacular.

I'd like to come back here, jump on a boat and learn more about the lifestyle of a commercial fisherman. It seems like everyone knows a bit more about the crabbing and fishing industries of AK now with the Deadliest Catch (out of Dutch Harbor, AK) and the other reality shows cropping up... I'd like to see a show like that turn to a Mike, to teach us more about the trade, rather than focusing on the greenhorn who is pissing off the captain and not doing his job right. These guys know so much about the ocean, the weather, and wildlife (fish and other). I'd like to learn more from them, rather than see the soap opera. I guess that's why we've got the history channel, NatGeo and Discovery, no!?

Aaaaaaanyway (that's a shout out to my friend erik hausler), been a GREAT few days here in Haines. Did the 10 miler yesterday - 5,100 ft of total elevation, was incredible. Tested us both physically and mentally, but was so well worth it. Can't wait to post about it soon.

"Catch" you in a bit... wow, that was awful.

Take care folks.

Our ship has sailed...on to Haines

Another quick one, but logger post within the next couple of days... promisimo.

Did Raven's, was awesome, good hike, neat cabin, low cloud with limited breaks... but got some good views of Wrangell Narrows and Fredrik's Sound. Hike back into town the next day and spent two nights in Peterburg. Loved it. Fishing village, proud (like most of AK), friendly, tasty, blah, blah. But alas we moved on... to greener waters (no really) and north to Haines. Did the overnight ferry through Juneau and arrived about 12 noon today.

This place is spectacular. Taller, more rugged and shit... the first blue sky we've seen. This afternoon we hopped on bikes out to Chilkoot River/Lake and caught our first bear... a male black, feasting on sockeye salmon. What a start!

We're back to camping - awesome place 3/4 a mile outside of town for $5 a night. Cha-ching!

K, time at the library is running out... we're going to do a 10 miler and get to 4,000 feet above this place tomorrow. Should be great and be in the high 60's. Wow!

Talk again, soon.

Love - a+r