Petersburg: Short and Sweet
Wednesday, September 02, 2009 by Ry
We ended up spending just under 72 hours in Petersburg, but boy did it leave a mark. It's a town of around 3,000 people built on the proper combination of fisheries (mostly), logging (minimal), tourism (minimal). It sits a'top (northern most point) Mitkof Island and is accessible from the south through the Wrangell Narrows - an impressive waterway, which when navigated by the ferry we arrived on I liken to boating up otter creek to the Vergennes falls.... shits tieeeeght! One of the Narrow's best parts, besides its natural beauty, is that it doesn't allow the large cruise ships through, thus no cruisers (ah yes they have a name) clogging up Petersburg streets throughout the summer. After Ketchikan (three to four boats a day) that was amazingly refreshing.
It's a fishing town with north, mid, and south docks lined with trollers, seiners, gill-netters and charter fishing boats... the docks are awesome. We actually met a born and bread Petersburg fisherman, Mike, through our Petersburg host (owner of Alaska Island Hostel, Ryn). After meeting Mike at the Hostel Saturday afternoon noon, we saw him again that evening on his boat, as he prepared for a three day silver (coho) salmon trip. The trip are all regulated by the state to maintain sustainable fish populations. He super nice, loved answering questions and sharing knowledge of the art. Talking to him you realize, in these parts...everyone fishes. You don't have to work for a company, you are the company and everyone sells their catch back to the local cannery. Mike's been doing it himself for years, with side gigs here and there. I was this close to heading out with him, little first mate, deck hand action, but wasn't in the cards; just means we'll have to return. We've got a picture of his boat which we'll post once we get wifi back. Just awesome stuff.
While walking the docks Sunday (the next day) we saw two of the kids that were on our original ferry ride up from Bellingham, WA. They were twenty somethings, decked out in rain gear obviously now assigned to a boat and workin away. It was the first realization of how small the Southeast Alaska community could be if you traveled throughout it at any length. I wonder how often people travel outside of their town or borough, to other parts of SE Alaska... my guess is not much.
On Sunday, we also followed, what seemed like, everyone's advice and partook in a local greasy spoon favorite: Halibut Beer Bits at Coastal Cold Storage; a small deli slash fresh and frozen seafood joint on Nordic Ave (the main drag). It was deeeeelic, sided with fries... which were also very good. Annie said it was like they had "hand picked the best McDonald's fries and put them in one basket". Don't act like you don't know what we talkin' about!
So... to sum it up: good people, good scenery, still, calm waters, 3,000 foot spruced peaks, boats galore, good food and - although we didn't talk about it - an interesting fashion statement centered around 16" tall rubber boots (wait for the pictures), it's spectacular.
I'd like to come back here, jump on a boat and learn more about the lifestyle of a commercial fisherman. It seems like everyone knows a bit more about the crabbing and fishing industries of AK now with the Deadliest Catch (out of Dutch Harbor, AK) and the other reality shows cropping up... I'd like to see a show like that turn to a Mike, to teach us more about the trade, rather than focusing on the greenhorn who is pissing off the captain and not doing his job right. These guys know so much about the ocean, the weather, and wildlife (fish and other). I'd like to learn more from them, rather than see the soap opera. I guess that's why we've got the history channel, NatGeo and Discovery, no!?
Aaaaaaanyway (that's a shout out to my friend erik hausler), been a GREAT few days here in Haines. Did the 10 miler yesterday - 5,100 ft of total elevation, was incredible. Tested us both physically and mentally, but was so well worth it. Can't wait to post about it soon.
"Catch" you in a bit... wow, that was awful.
Take care folks.
It's a fishing town with north, mid, and south docks lined with trollers, seiners, gill-netters and charter fishing boats... the docks are awesome. We actually met a born and bread Petersburg fisherman, Mike, through our Petersburg host (owner of Alaska Island Hostel, Ryn). After meeting Mike at the Hostel Saturday afternoon noon, we saw him again that evening on his boat, as he prepared for a three day silver (coho) salmon trip. The trip are all regulated by the state to maintain sustainable fish populations. He super nice, loved answering questions and sharing knowledge of the art. Talking to him you realize, in these parts...everyone fishes. You don't have to work for a company, you are the company and everyone sells their catch back to the local cannery. Mike's been doing it himself for years, with side gigs here and there. I was this close to heading out with him, little first mate, deck hand action, but wasn't in the cards; just means we'll have to return. We've got a picture of his boat which we'll post once we get wifi back. Just awesome stuff.
While walking the docks Sunday (the next day) we saw two of the kids that were on our original ferry ride up from Bellingham, WA. They were twenty somethings, decked out in rain gear obviously now assigned to a boat and workin away. It was the first realization of how small the Southeast Alaska community could be if you traveled throughout it at any length. I wonder how often people travel outside of their town or borough, to other parts of SE Alaska... my guess is not much.
On Sunday, we also followed, what seemed like, everyone's advice and partook in a local greasy spoon favorite: Halibut Beer Bits at Coastal Cold Storage; a small deli slash fresh and frozen seafood joint on Nordic Ave (the main drag). It was deeeeelic, sided with fries... which were also very good. Annie said it was like they had "hand picked the best McDonald's fries and put them in one basket". Don't act like you don't know what we talkin' about!
So... to sum it up: good people, good scenery, still, calm waters, 3,000 foot spruced peaks, boats galore, good food and - although we didn't talk about it - an interesting fashion statement centered around 16" tall rubber boots (wait for the pictures), it's spectacular.
I'd like to come back here, jump on a boat and learn more about the lifestyle of a commercial fisherman. It seems like everyone knows a bit more about the crabbing and fishing industries of AK now with the Deadliest Catch (out of Dutch Harbor, AK) and the other reality shows cropping up... I'd like to see a show like that turn to a Mike, to teach us more about the trade, rather than focusing on the greenhorn who is pissing off the captain and not doing his job right. These guys know so much about the ocean, the weather, and wildlife (fish and other). I'd like to learn more from them, rather than see the soap opera. I guess that's why we've got the history channel, NatGeo and Discovery, no!?
Aaaaaaanyway (that's a shout out to my friend erik hausler), been a GREAT few days here in Haines. Did the 10 miler yesterday - 5,100 ft of total elevation, was incredible. Tested us both physically and mentally, but was so well worth it. Can't wait to post about it soon.
"Catch" you in a bit... wow, that was awful.
Take care folks.
Ryan! I can imagine you on the ocean with Mike...
Ryannie,
You better go fishing in AK!!! no excuses, just doooo it.
I want to go someplace where we know someone, who can plug us into the social pipeline. ....someplace warm, a place where the woman instinctively flock like the salmon of capistrano.