I totally agree with Annie's discussion about the people and places we visited while trekking the Annapurnas.  It feels as though you're taken back in time centuries, to when life was simpler, which can mean easier in many ways.  Certainly not in a physical sense - these people work hard!  I do however feel the need to reiterate just how beautiful the landscapes were on this trek and the emotion that invoked.

After 4 months on the road, we've seen some pretty amazing places, but for me, nothing creates awe like white, ice capped peaks - in this case around the Annapurnas.  It's difficult to describe with words, but for me it proves, yet once again how amazing and beautiful our natural world is.  For some reason I always think of seeing snowflakes form under a microscope for the first time and being amazed at its beauty.  Although very tangential, this is yet another (and for me arguably the most beautiful) landscape the natural world can provide...

So the second half of pictures from Nepal focus mainly on the mountains...however there are the other typical things thrown in there, including a few shots from our days after the trek in Pokhara, then our visit from Scotty Rokis, which included a rafting trip (with the Swedes) and a then a trip to an ancient town outside of Kathmandu.

Currently sitting in Hoi An, Vietnam, it's raining - as it typically does here in December, but this place is really neat.  The city was spared from massive destruction of the "American War", so the French and Japanese influence of colonial times lives on.  Oh and you can get a suit tailor made for fifty bucks!

We're now working on where to spend Christmas and the turn of the New Year.  Fun fun!

The best way to see Nepal is with a little elevation. The Himalayan mountains run the length of this tiny country and make up a good deal of its hot spots. We were able to spend some quality time in the heart of them while circumnavigating the Annapurna mountains and then making our way into base camp surrounded on three sides by some of the highest peaks in the world. The beginning of this trip started with some careful planning in Kathmandu to determine a route and most importantly a suitable guide. After interviewing four guides, we're very thorough you know, we found our match and were feeling good about a twenty two day time frame. Now we just had to do it.

Pradip became our third, crucial, wheel for the next few weeks, a local Nepalese man that has taken a number of groups into the mountains and claims that they have all returned safely. He became our best friend and best local knowledge as we blindly jumped into the world of trekking and up to elevations that our bodies have never experienced. One of the other beautiful things about Pradip was that he carried some our belongings. We did try to keep it to a minimum but when you put Ryan's 80 ltr backpack onto a five foot Nepalese man it looks unproportionally large.... try telling that to other trekkers carrying all of their own stuff! (Brian, Graham, Jen, and a host of others quickly called us out on the trail)

The two greatest aspects of the Annapurna Circuit are 1) hiking through some very old traditional Nepali towns and 2) meeting the people that inhabit them. Every town has its own distinct character and community feel. The building style changes from timber to stone as you get closer to the Tibetan boarder and rise in elevation and the farming style changes
depending on the climate and terrain. We passed through warmer valley regions with lush vegetation and mountain sides of rice terraces, fields of fruit trees. But as we gained elevation the land turned dry and desert like, the vegetables became scarce and hearty yaks took over the countryside. It was neat to watch this climate change in such a short amount of time and how people of these diverse areas lived. Everyone makes the most of what they have. The houses are very minimal with kitchen, bedroom, living space all being in one small area and all generations of families living together. By our societal standards you'd say they are poor and needy but, everyone had a smile on their face and time to look up and say "Namaste." The children seemed to have the best imaginations. When you don't have outside stimulation to rely on, the little things are what keep you entertained. Sometimes a plastic bag full of plastic bags turned into a hacky sack or rocks and marbles make for hours of fun.

On our very last night of the trip we ended up being the only guests at a family's guesthouse in their little riverside town of Syauli Bazar. We joined them in their kitchen to observe the preparation of our meal and chat with them about their lives. So although I was initially more excited about the scenery and aesthetic in store for us along our trek, getting that true glimpse, however short, into the lives of the native Nepalese and their homes, was the real rewarding part of this trek for me.

Our first impressions of Nepal came quickly as Annie and I grabbed luggage at the airport and walked out front to grab a cab. I had expectations of the scene, several folks vying for our business, wheeling-and-dealing for a good price. If unprepared this can be your most vulnerable moment - not knowing how far from your accommodation you are, how much it should cost, if this guy is legit, it's all quite an experience. Kathmandu, no different, but I had armed myself with a bit of info so was ready for whatever was coming my way.

I had read stories about taxis taking unsuspecting passengers to "preferred lodges". "Hey Pally, no no strings attached, just come see this lodge, it's very nice!" ... what the dude doesn't tell you is that if you stay at that place, then he gets a hefty commission. I had booked accommodation beforehand and armed myself with some info on average taxi prices into town, so felt pretty good about that. Now, it was just a matter of identifying someone honest....for that you just have to go with your gut.

As we exited the airport we passed the fixed price taxi counter, where "airport officials" try to get you to pay, what we found to be, at least 1.5x the price you could get outside. They insisted their price was fair, but we moved outside, into the lion's den.

Once outside, the onslaught began. These guys LOVE tourists with big packs, especially those that look clueless. Even when I'm well prepared I can give off the impression of being clueless, so it was on like Donkey Kong. No less than 15 people touting their services rushed to our side "Taxi?...Thamel?....You need guesthouse?"

Surrounded, the group looking up at me...I said... "Already have a place, thanks. Need to get to Kathmandu Peace Guesthouse. 400 Rupees" ... some moans "400? No!", some laughs - I got lots of laughs throughout the month in Nepal, but one guy, in the back, looked, pointed and said "400? OK."

Now, once one guy agrees to a price, the rest start to denounce him. "Oh, he's not licensed, he's not official, he's not in the association, he's not in queue" At that time, I didn't know and didn't want to get into a pickle... so I started to ask others. "OK, so who IS official?" Oh boy, what a mistake. I got everthing from driver's licenses, to taxi licenses to Member's Club cards thrown in my face. OK, bad idea, how do I decipher? I didn't have to. Seconds later some dude, in something of an official uniform, perhaps airport police?! came by and told the guys to back off. I asked the uniformed 16 year old with a gun.... "Are any of these guys legit? Can we go with anyone?" He said yes... so I looked back at the first guy, who was still sitting back a ways, not getting up in my face and said "Let's go."

We started walking with intention and the angry mob saw that they had lost the deal, game over ... and we were on our way.

Still a bit shakey we climbed into the van and off we went to Peace Guesthouse.

It was late, it was dark, we passed stray dogs, street side fires and an occasional lit street lamp. We took, what appeared to be back roads, which at the time felt like... roads leading to our impending demise. "Did we get the character call wrong on this guy? are we being brought to that preferred lodge of his?" Not lots of english exchanged, so couldn't get a good read, until 15 minutes later...we arrived, safe and sound at Peace Guest. We were both relieved. We had gotten through the first encounter. I was so relieved that the guy played us straight that I gave him 500 Rupees just cause. He had made our first trip in a new country a good and safe one.

So we checked in and laid down with good thoughts in our heads. Not only were we preparing ourselves the trek we had been looking forward to for months, but we had a good feeling about the people of Nepal... perhaps prematurely, but that's exactly what happens when you start a country off with a good experience.

Hey Everyone!

Annie and I are back to civilization here in Kathmandu after 20 days trekking the Nepalese Himalaya. I think Annie O will agree with me that the trip met or exceeded all of our expectations and has to be the top highlight of everything we've done thus far. I shouldn't speak too soon though, as as we're headed out, with friend Scotty Rokis, who dropped in on us from India, to spend our Thanksgiving on the Bhote Kasi, one of Nepal's most famous white water rivers. Thanksgiving indeeeeeeed! Before headeding out we wanted to wish everyone back home and abroad the very best this Thanksgiving holiday - may your time be spent surrounded by laughter and loved ones.

Talk again soon, to catch up on China and the haps here in Nepal.

Love you.

I'm writing with Annie watching over my shoulder from a remote town in Lower Mustang Province, Nepal called Marpha. This is the closest this country gets to Tibet outside of forbidden Upper Mustang territory). It's full of Tibetans and their cultures. Very interesting how that land has bled into this country...more like it's interesting how country borders were drawn without regards to cultures and the people
who inhabited the lands. OK, more later, but wanted to let you all know that we're really enjoying ourselves, we've crossed Throng La..the 5400 meter (over 17.5K foot) pass and we're on our way down...oh, until we go back up again to the Annapurna anctuary - should be a blast. Ten more days until we're back in contact.... hope all is well with you. We think about everyone very often, post again soon.

...in the land of the magical Himalayas. We're in Kathmandu, Nepal and wowsa! If you thought Beijing was busy, think again. We're here, we're talking to trekking companies and gearing up the Annapurna Circuit. It's fun and exciting. But this place has so many little sanctuaries as well, you can see how people get "stuck" at Base Camp for days longer than expected, "sipping hot chocolate, growing a beard". We've got a few days, but we're ripping to get on the trail. More later!

I'm not liking this 2 game losing streak by the GMen. Back into form against the Eagles this weekend - let's go big blue!