guest blogger: Christie Sumner

After our day into, and night overlooking Ngorongoro Crater, we loaded up the “cruiser” with tents, mattresses, pots and pans, and our packs, etc and headed to our next adventure, walking and camping with Good Earth across the Ngorongoro highlands. After setting up camp in a small village of Nanokanoka, meeting our cook, Othman (my personal favorite of all personnel), we were introduced to “our” ranger, Adrian, who took us for a warm-up hike to see Olmoti crater, lake and waterfall. Once he cocked his rifle, we understood we were still in wild territory. On foot, we encountered our first interested village kids, who tag along, but who want money or any other thing we might unload upon them, particularly if we want to take their picture. A few made the entire few hour trek with us and we “got to know” them a bit. First night camping, we settled in, found the outhouse with the hole in it, organized gear, and had a great dinner. Another group arrived and set up as well, and enjoyed a late night (!) in their cook tent. In the morning, after fruit, eggs, toast and peanut butter, we packed up and headed out with Adrian across meadows and through Massai villages, following cattle tracks and, for many hours in the sun, down and across the Embulbul Depression. We came upon a resting group of teenagers from a local village, on their way to Nanokanoka. Several were dressed in the Massai red check wraps, one in modern dress and leather jacket but wrapped in his red check and one just modern dress. Most had cell phones. The two were home on break from secondary school in Arusha. After much discussion regarding their studies, Ryan exchanged email addresses and we all pushed off in our respective directions. We could see our yellow tents set up and six hours later we arrive at a widely spread Massai village, where some children walk up to 12 kilometers to school, carrying a milk-filled calabash or a plastic jug of water. A recess “football” game incorporating most of the 600 students was in full swing when we arrived. Ryan jumped right in and ended up as the spire in the middle of a screaming group of brown heads. Annie got her turn as she lay on the ground in a circle of children showing her their “pretty healthy” teeth! Ryan walked partway with the excited kids after school. As we were in the highlands, it was cool at night, so out came the hats and extra layers. Othman figured out that “Mama” likes her tea at 4pm, so that became the norm, along with popcorn. More great meals followed. Next morning, after a quick stop at the primary school (we hadn’t planned on bringing a monetary donation, and “Mama’s” bag of goodies was left behind, so we didn’t have “comfortable” access) where 600 kids are taught by 2 teachers, we headed out with Adrian and his gun, once again following the cattle tracks over hill and dale, beautiful enormous landscape, to our next campsite. Annie, Ryan and Adrian hiked down to Embakaai Crater Lake. We traveled over dirt road the next day to Naiyobi village. On this trek, we passed several groups of girls/women, who wanted to sell us their crafts. We also happened upon Freddy, about 8 years old, in tattered brown. He was very shy, but turned back and followed us about 3 kilometers to the village. Ryan was able to break him out a bit. As we reached the village, another boy joined us and his name was also Freddy. As a matter of fact, by the time we got to our tents, we’d met about five Freddys. Freddy I hung around that afternoon, and came back in the morning, the only thing changed was the order of his sweater/t-shirt layering. We finally “had” him when we started sharing our pictures and letting the kids take pictures with our cameras. That was, in the end, the way we came to an understanding with the Massai people, by sharing our time: through photography, play, sharing our crafts (knitting) and talents (singing, whistling, drumming). We finally saw them smile, laugh and embrace us.

The final six hour push to Lake Natron involved 3 donkeys piled with our packs and camping gear, 3 Massai men, Othman and us in a caravan through cattle, sheep and goat herds, down from the ash-strewn (from 2007 eruption of Lengai volcano) highlands, where we met our new guide/driver, Joseph, and sorted out the men and donkeys (all Massai and donkeys were turned back for another six hour trek home!).

At this point, “Mama” considered her options: to climb Lengai or not. Heck, we had about six hours to rest before starting up at midnight! There was a full moon. It was billed as a “strenuous” hike, but with the “possibility” of an amazing sunrise! Hmmm. When Elie taps on your tent at 11pm, you really should have made a decision; but barring that, you’re awake, so you might as well go. With full moon, clear night, we rarely needed our headlamps at all. The gradual uphill climb on fairly hard surface was a real fooler for things to come, as the surface became ash/pumice and the grade went quickly from gradual to steep, then steeper. It was pretty much like climbing a sand dune for 4 hours, polle polle (slowly, slowly). We fell into a line with Ryan stamping up sideways, crossing over to make “steps” for Annie and “Mama.” And, “Mama” muttering from time to time: “How are we going to get down?” “Why are we doing this?” After Elie announced that he often takes Americans, and that Chicagoans make it to the top, but San Franciscans usually turn around half-way, well, the challenge was laid down for Vermonters, so the muttering continued, “We are really being stubborn!” At some point, we realized the moon was no longer with us, and, then, about 45 minutes from the top we heard the rain. When it arrived we hunkered down under Elie’s poncho for about 10 minutes, but I guess he knew the trip was over and it was time to get off the volcano as quickly as possible. How are we going to get down? Run! We could hear the rushing water filling the gullies on each side of us (“This is something you don’t tell your mother!”). Headlamps and glasses were of little use in the clouds, fog and rain. Just stay close and follow the person ahead. Sopping wet, back in the cruiser, we still had to cross now-swollen riverbeds. The black water surged as the hikers crashed for about an hour, waiting for a break. Having just heard a story of a guide being swept away in his vehicle and drowning, did not evoke confidence. But, we made it across and back to camp and one of Othman’s great breakfasts. Finding something dry to put on was a challenge, but we did, loaded the cruiser and headed toward our next adventure at Lake Eyasi.

Guest Blogger: Christie "Mama" Sumner

CIA-type investigation at kilimanjaro airport comes up empty as mama-traveller goes undercover to arusha with the u.n. envoy.  all were reunited in a tearful, ecstatic gathering, in anticipation of "things to come."  first, striking out in 4-wheel drive to tarangire to find the big game. find it we did: elephants, baboons, giraffes, zebras, thomson gazelles, smaller types, and to amazement of our guide, aaron, a lion in a tree, not generally found in tarangire. next, off to serengeti, which gave us more of the above, and many lions, both male and female, and some very sickly year old cubs, giving us a first look at natural survival.  we saw our first leapord and then a very grisly stop at three cheetahs on a wildebeest kill (another first for our guide, the wildebeest kill by cheetahs) which we watched for an hour, as they took turns feasting and resting, as the scavenger storks, vultures, etc were at bay at some distance, waiting their turn with the 'beest! pictures and video to follow. by now, we are totally engrossed in the safari experience, appreciating the experience of our guide, if not his gregariousness despite ryan's best efforts.  the landscape is different from any. the animals drawing our attention on a fairly regular basis. okay, so what about this wildebeest? look it up online, as a matter of fact the wildebeest migration should show up on youtube, and we came up right in the middle of it as we crested a hill on our way to ndutu, southern serengeti. think buffalo herds in early america.  we are utterly entranced.  the wildebeest, along with zebra, migrate in a clockwise pattern following the feed as the rainy season circles the serengeti.  we continue through the herd where we can go off road and they are all around us, making their way across the rivers.  our first "tented camp" is right "out of africa."  we have two nights there, with game drives during the day.  the second day, we are treated to another exciting event.  we have observed a couple of very lazy male lions in the dry riverbed and soon realize there are a couple of females in the grass, not far away.  we go back and forth, watching each group, when the males struggle forth and saunter toward the females who also have a kill of some sort. as the males come closer at one point about 2 feet away, one of the females strikes out at them.  they are easily cowed, and back off, at which point the female struts out her three 3-week old cubs directly in our view, about 10 feet from the jeep.  our next area is ngorongoro crater, one of the largest volcanic craters in the world and home to many animals, some of which are a first for us: flamingos and black rhinos. we get up close and personal with annie's favorites, the elephants, as well as a pool of "laughing" hippos.  our accommodation for the night is on the crater rim with a view, a long view, of the whole panorama. after 7 days of riding and game viewing from our 4-wheel, it is time to stretch out and start the walking and camping portion of this 14-day journey.

A year ago we sat in our Brookline apartment staring at a map of the world and plotted our extreme adventure of what we’ve now learned to call a ‘gap year’.  Being a big picture thinker this was the only way I could even grasp what we were about to set out to do.  Each night placing another push pin into a new exotic place we learned about during the day we came up with a rough itinerary.  One place that always made the top of my list was Africa.  I’ve always been drawn to uncharted territory and Africa presented itself with a world of unknown to me.  After having been here for six weeks it has over exceeded expectations of variety and we’ve only explored one country, Tanzania.  We’ve spent time in the hills (Mt. Kilimanjaro and Lengai), the highlands (and depressions of volcanic craters), the expansive sky of the Serengeti and pristine beaches of the Swahili coast. 
  One of the highlights of this portion of our trip was to be able to spend a month with my mother and we kicked off that time with a two week safari.  The animal’s performed as expected,  exceptionally well - to be able to join their world without iinfringing on their lives was truly amazing.  You just don’t see giraffes walking down Comm Ave.  It’s hard to imagine this becoming a bore for someone that’s lived here their whole life as we order our guide to stop the truck at the first sighting of zebras and impalas.  It’s a little clique to say our safari was a dream come true but it’s the only way to describe my stunned expression that lasted the entire two weeks.
  In comparison our trip up Kilimanjaro wasn’t even a desire until the morning we reached its summit.  I’m always willing and normally able for a new adventure but climbing Kilimanjaro wasn’t ever a life long dream or goal.  The enormity did however shock me as I witnessed the sun slowly shed light on all of Africa after climbing straight up hill for six and half hours in the darkness of this mountain.  Ryan’s most memorable quote from the journey came from the depths of altitude disorientation with such clarity, “how could they ever have thought the world was flat?”   We’d decided on a route and a guide in Arusha two days before we left and set out on the biggest mental test of our lives without ever questioning our gear, physical ability, or purpose.
  After safari my mother wouldn’t stop hounding us for a little beach time (easiest to blame it on her) so we followed up game drives and a rather grueling attempt at summiting an active volcano in the pouring rain, with one of Tanzania’s best kept secrets, Mafia Island.  I have a wise older brother that has pointed out the strong similarities between my mother and I and one that I’ve seriously developed is my draw to the water.  The water of the Swahili coast is the color of glacier ice but the temperature of a warm bath, wouldn’t you be drawn as well? 
  Having hit the tri-fecta of Tanzania we again realize that we haven’t really seen Africa but rather tasted a fragment of something much bigger and need to return.