A year ago we sat in our Brookline apartment staring at a map of the world and plotted our extreme adventure of what we’ve now learned to call a ‘gap year’.  Being a big picture thinker this was the only way I could even grasp what we were about to set out to do.  Each night placing another push pin into a new exotic place we learned about during the day we came up with a rough itinerary.  One place that always made the top of my list was Africa.  I’ve always been drawn to uncharted territory and Africa presented itself with a world of unknown to me.  After having been here for six weeks it has over exceeded expectations of variety and we’ve only explored one country, Tanzania.  We’ve spent time in the hills (Mt. Kilimanjaro and Lengai), the highlands (and depressions of volcanic craters), the expansive sky of the Serengeti and pristine beaches of the Swahili coast. 
  One of the highlights of this portion of our trip was to be able to spend a month with my mother and we kicked off that time with a two week safari.  The animal’s performed as expected,  exceptionally well - to be able to join their world without iinfringing on their lives was truly amazing.  You just don’t see giraffes walking down Comm Ave.  It’s hard to imagine this becoming a bore for someone that’s lived here their whole life as we order our guide to stop the truck at the first sighting of zebras and impalas.  It’s a little clique to say our safari was a dream come true but it’s the only way to describe my stunned expression that lasted the entire two weeks.
  In comparison our trip up Kilimanjaro wasn’t even a desire until the morning we reached its summit.  I’m always willing and normally able for a new adventure but climbing Kilimanjaro wasn’t ever a life long dream or goal.  The enormity did however shock me as I witnessed the sun slowly shed light on all of Africa after climbing straight up hill for six and half hours in the darkness of this mountain.  Ryan’s most memorable quote from the journey came from the depths of altitude disorientation with such clarity, “how could they ever have thought the world was flat?”   We’d decided on a route and a guide in Arusha two days before we left and set out on the biggest mental test of our lives without ever questioning our gear, physical ability, or purpose.
  After safari my mother wouldn’t stop hounding us for a little beach time (easiest to blame it on her) so we followed up game drives and a rather grueling attempt at summiting an active volcano in the pouring rain, with one of Tanzania’s best kept secrets, Mafia Island.  I have a wise older brother that has pointed out the strong similarities between my mother and I and one that I’ve seriously developed is my draw to the water.  The water of the Swahili coast is the color of glacier ice but the temperature of a warm bath, wouldn’t you be drawn as well? 
  Having hit the tri-fecta of Tanzania we again realize that we haven’t really seen Africa but rather tasted a fragment of something much bigger and need to return.

With only a little over a week left before we had a flight out of Bangkok we decided to make the most out of our Thailand time. We were able to visit with some family friends, take a Thai cooking class, rent a moto bike for a Pai excursion (one of the most chill places on Earth) but the highlight for this chick was the day we spent as elephant owners. This is no elephant in a zoo or on television, this is your own personal elephant that you get to take care of for the whole day. It's a big job to care for an elephant. The day started with us checking to make sure they were healthy by inspecting their droppings to make sure it was moist enough and they were drinking enough water, their toe nails to make sure they're sweating and checking for dirt on their sides to make sure they laid down to sleep the previous night. Then we took them in the stream to scrub them up, they get baths everyday. After that we climbed up and rode them out to the river where they all took a swim and we jumped in too. It was so amazing! I've always felt that these animals are so large and graceful but also so untouchable, this experience brought us closer to them in an unthinkable way.

Along the southern boarder of Laos, bumping up against northeastern Cambodia there's a group of islands, smack dab in the middle of the Mekong River. The mass is named after the sheer quantity of islands... supposedly 4,000, but I wouldn't know, I stopped counting after 12. Of the 4,000 islands you only hear about three of them and we chose to spend our time on Dong Khon, the southernly most island.


The highlight of the islands is that there is no highlight. It has to be the most relaxed and chilled out place we've encountered on our entire journey (perhaps only usurped by Pai, but we'll get to that later). We spent 4 relaxed days mainly on our bungalow's porch overlooking the Mekong watching life go by, when not catching up on reading and writing (who am I kidding, I didn't write a word) but seriously folks, the place was a small sleepy fishing and farming village, with just enough tourism comforts to be convenient without being tacky or overrun. It was magic... and in addition the people were spectacular! The place we stayed at was a small operation, four bungalows total. Three generations lived on the premasis, which was perfectly set right on the river, as well as being adjacent to the island's only wat (Buddhist Temple).... that's how I spell p-e-a-c-e-f-u-l. Most interesting about the family as well as the majority of households is that tourism is not the main source of income. They're all doing other things in order to make ends-meat... for most the main source was fishing. The fishing market ended up being across from our accommodation. When I say market I mean people congregate with their last night's catch (mostly catfish) on the ground, it's weighed out, people are paid appropriately, some is immediately sold to interested parties, and the rest is stacked into baskets and carried to a boat which is headed to the mainland. On good mornings, I'd get back from a run to see the guys celebrating with the local beverage of choice called laolao, rice whiskey... yeah that's at about 7:30 AM, and of course you can't say no to celebrating Laos gents.

But that was it. We spent time with the family, one night sitting around husking nuts used with betle, which once husked only gets them about $2 per kg.. NOTHING! and spending time with the kids of the family... throwing a cd back and forth was a good one, until we gave the boys a tennis ball, which they loved.

We actually did do one touristy thing... we went to see the fresh water dolphins. There are supposedly under 40 left in the world and this set lives right along the Laos, Cambodian boarder. You take a 30 min long nose boat ride out to the viewing area. We chose to pay the extra $1 to run aground on the Cambodian side of the river have a couple of Beerlao and watch the dolphins from ashore... just as the sun set. It was magic and a great way to start our last evening. We then proceeded to be invited to the boat driver's beach side restaurant for dinner with his family. It ended up being a type of hot pot with fish and vegetables, oh and laolao of course. It was so quinessential Laos, making it difficult for us to leave.

But alas plans called and we had to head north. Luang Prabang was our next stop and our party was about to grow to 4, then 6. We said good-bye to Dong Khone with fond memories and the hope that this fairly unspoilt spot would keep its charm and innocence until our next visit, in a few years.

After spending some quality time in Vietnam we realized if we wanted to taste the other three countries on our itinerary we would have to skip some intricate exploration.  Entering Cambodia we realized right away that we would have to return to get a the full flavor of the lives these people live and decided to make Siem Reap our focus after a brief stop in Phnom Penh. 
  Siem Reap is conveniently set up for tourists and backpackers making their way through Cambodia. So not to get confused they've even labeled a street 'Pub Street' with happy hours from open to late with buy one $.50 draft get a second free.  The town has a carefree Southeast Asia feel to it with night markets selling silk, silver and just about anything you can write Angkor Wat on.  There are many western comforts lining the streets from pizza and hamburgers to massage tables and convenient stores.  The true attraction and often why so many people stop in this town is because less then 10km outside of town lies the lost city of Angkor. 
  What was once a bustling city is now only remnants of the finest artisans in history.  The carvings that remain in the sandstone and plaster describes their lives in amazing detail and tell stories of gods that these people devoted their lives to.  Angkor is the most hands-on experience you will ever have with art from thousands of years ago.  You feel mischievous as you climb over large pieces of sandstone with elephants and buddas carved into them, almost as if you snuck into the museum after hours and crossed the velvet rope.  In the land of Angkor nothing is off limits as you wander through the Khmer world. 
  Although we had an incredible time exploring this piece of Cambodia's past it pains me to look around and realize that everyone my age and older has lived through one of the most horrific periods in our worlds history.  We know that we must return to this beautiful country to get a deeper feeling for the battle these people have had to fight in their lifetime.  There is so much beauty in Cambodia and the people are amazing in their generosity as we travel through a land that is so foreign to us.  It makes me step back and think about how solid the ground is in our country and how shaken it has been for so many to this day.  

We heard a lot of negative things about Vietnam, before, during and after our trip there. Mainly people had an issue with how the Vietnamese prey on tourists.  There's the relentless hassling of touts in every touristic area, then there's the tourist price vs. the local price.  Those two things, added to the fact that Vietnam can easily be a package travel type country seems to have turned a bunch of people off.

I'll admit there are times you get quite sick of saying 'no thank you' or as my cousin Pat's favorite 'Thanks, but I already have one of those', but we didn't let it get to us to the level of having it be the first thing we say about Vietnam.  Often times I took it as an opportunity to have a conversation.  You'd be amazed how quickly the 'touter' can be come the 'touted' if you just respond with a simple question.  How's business this year?  Where's this place? Where is this stuff made?  All different ways to get the focus off of you buying something.

Same thing with the prices.  We accept the fact that tourists will pay more, but like anywhere, if you come into a buying situation with some information about what you're buying, you'll come out alright in Vietnam.  Sure there are always exceptions, like that $15 chopstick set we bought, then saw a local buy for $2 (may or may not have happened), but you grit your teeth, say 'you've won this battle, but the war's not over' and move on.

The level of orgnization around tourism in Vietnam can get overwhelming and slightly annoying for the typical do-it-yourselfer.  It seemed often times you can't get any information about a place without the first thing being 'but we have a tour for that, please look, here.'  But again, diligence can be rewarded here in spades. 

Halong Bay is a good example.  Halong Bay is northeast of Hanoi, in northern Vietnam, absolutely beautiful backdrop of limestone karst mountains jutting out of the ocean.  A 'must-see' for any Vietnam trip.  Most people see Halong Bay through a 2 or 3 day tour with companies out of Hanoi, which includes one night on pretty tacky replica junk boat and often a second night on the largest inhabited island in the area Cat Ba.  But with just a little more effort we heard stories of at least 3 groups finding a ride out to Halong Bay (town) then getting ferried directly over to Cat Ba island - on some pretty local forms of transport - and spending all of their time on the Cat Ba, perhaps not even seeing the "true" Halong Bay, but undoubtedly getting a good view of the surrounding landscape and enjoying everything that Cat Ba had to offer - including day trips into the waters from there, a national park, good cycling and hiking etc.

We actually opted for a tour which included a night on the boat, kayaking for a day and a night on Cat Ba.     The highlights for me were 1) kayaking, 2) the place we stayed on Cat Ba and the sunset that evening 3) the people we met on the boat.  We met Adrian and Barbara, a Dutch couple, there, then again later in the trip and had a really nice time with them.  It never would have happened if we had done the do-it-yourselfer thing... So there you go as is the case always, there's good and not so good in every situation you're in.  It's up to you to make the decision, then make the best of the situation, because in the end everything will turn out alright.

We really enjoyed Vietnam and I can bet that our great experience was in large part due to the fact that we did take our time and 'did the place justice'.  Lovely.